Mock neck or turtleneck? Crewneck or V-neck? If you’re shopping for men’s sweaters, the neckline is one of the first details worth getting right. It changes what you can wear underneath, how a sweater sits under a coat and whether it feels casual or dressed up.

Here’s how I see the main sweater necklines—and which ones I’d actually spend money on.

1. Crewneck Sweater: The One I’d Buy First

A crewneck has a simple round neckline. Nothing unusual, and that’s why I like it. It works with jeans, chinos and tailored trousers. You can wear a T-shirt underneath without thinking much about it, or let an Oxford shirt collar show.

If I could keep only one sweater, I’d choose a medium-weight crewneck in navy, charcoal or oatmeal. A decent one doesn’t need logos or fancy stitching. The knit and fit should be enough.

2. V-Neck Sweater: Better With a Shirt

A V-neck leaves more space at the throat and shows what’s underneath. With a collared shirt, it makes sense. With a tie, it can look especially classic. On bare skin, I personally find most deep V-necks less convincing.

I wouldn’t buy one just because it’s considered a wardrobe essential. If you rarely wear collared shirts, a crewneck is probably more useful. If you do, a V-neck earns its place.

3. Mock Neck (Half Turtleneck): My Favourite Middle Ground

The mock neck—sometimes called a half turtleneck—has a short collar that stands up without folding over. It gives the cleaner, higher-neck look of a turtleneck without covering so much of your neck.

I actually prefer this shape to a full turtleneck for ordinary days. It looks good under a coat, works on its own and doesn’t feel quite as dressed up. Black, cream and dark brown are particularly easy colours.

4. Turtleneck (Roll Neck): The Classic High Collar

A turtleneck has a taller collar that folds or rolls down. That extra fabric makes it noticeably different from a mock neck. In British shops, you may also see roll neck or polo neck used for a similar high-neck sweater.

A fine-knit turtleneck under a blazer or wool coat is one of my favourite cold-weather looks. A thick, chunky version feels more rugged. Either way, I wouldn’t buy one without trying the collar: some are too tight around the neck, and I don’t care how elegant a sweater looks if I want to pull it off after ten minutes.

5. Quarter-Zip Sweater: Casual and Practical

A quarter-zip has a short zip at the neck, usually with a stand collar. You can open it over a T-shirt or zip it higher when it’s cold. It’s hard to beat for everyday Canadian weather, where you’re constantly moving between a chilly street and a heated room.

That said, quarter-zips can look a little too much like an office uniform if the fit is stiff and the colour is forgettable. I’d choose a simple wool or cotton knit over anything shiny or covered in branding.

6. Knit Polo: More Character Than a Basic Sweater

The knit polo has a shirt-style collar, sometimes with buttons or a short open placket. It feels a little vintage without requiring a full vintage outfit. I like it with straight-leg jeans or wool trousers.

One naming detail worth remembering: a knit polo with a shirt collar isn’t the same thing as the British term polo neck, which commonly means a turtleneck.

Which Sweater Neckline Should You Choose?

For maximum versatility: a crewneck. For shirts and smarter outfits: a V-neck. For a refined everyday look: a mock neck. For winter layering: a turtleneck. For casual wear: a quarter-zip. For something with a little retro character: a knit polo.

The collar isn’t everything, of course. Fabric and fit still matter. I’d look at the fibre label rather than assuming an expensive-looking knit is made from good wool. Merino is useful for fine layers; thicker wool works well for winter; cotton can be comfortable but isn’t my first choice for maximum warmth. Cashmere feels lovely, but the label alone doesn’t guarantee durability.

My own starting point would be three pieces: a navy crewneck, a charcoal or cream mock neck and a darker turtleneck. They cover most situations without filling a wardrobe with six versions of the same thing.

And if you’re deciding between an inexpensive sweater that fits and a famous label that doesn’t, you already know my answer. I wrote more about that in Why Fit Matters More Than Brand Names.